The most common faucet problems are drips from the spout, leaks around the handle or base, low water pressure, and handles that feel stiff, loose, or gritty. Nearly all of them trace back to a worn internal part (a cartridge, washer, or O-ring) or to mineral buildup. A faucet that’s working fine one month can start dripping the next because those small parts wear out on their own schedule.
If yours is doing something odd, there’s a good chance it’s on this list. Here’s what each problem looks like, what’s usually behind it, and how to tell a minor annoyance from something that needs attention.
What are the most common faucet problems at a glance?
| Problem | What you’ll notice | Most likely cause |
|---|---|---|
| Dripping spout | Steady drip when the faucet is fully off | Worn cartridge, washer, or valve seat |
| Leak at the handle | Water seeping up around the base of the handle | Cracked or worn O-ring, loose packing nut |
| Leak at the base | Pooling water around the bottom of the faucet or under the sink | Failed seals, loose mounting, or a supply line issue |
| Low water pressure | Weak or sputtering flow | Clogged aerator, mineral buildup, partly closed supply valve |
| Hard-to-turn handle | Stiff, gritty, or jerky movement | Mineral deposits, worn cartridge |
| Loose or wobbly faucet | Whole fixture shifts when you use it | Mounting hardware has worked loose |
| Water temperature problems | Can’t get hot, or temperature swings | Cartridge wear, mixing problem, or a water heater issue |
| Noisy pipes when running | Squealing, banging, or rattling | Loose parts, high water pressure, or worn washers |
Most households run into at least one of these over the life of a faucet. The rest of this post goes through them in order of how often they show up.
Why is my faucet dripping?
A dripping faucet is the classic, and it almost always comes down to a worn part inside the faucet that can no longer seal completely. Every time you shut the water off, something inside is supposed to press tight and stop the flow. When that part wears down, a little water sneaks past.
Worn cartridge
Most modern single-handle faucets run on a cartridge, a small cylinder that controls flow and temperature. Over the years the seals on a cartridge wear out and it stops shutting off cleanly. If you have a single-handle faucet that drips, the cartridge is the first suspect.
Worn washer or valve seat
Older two-handle faucets use rubber washers that press against a metal valve seat. The washer hardens and cracks with age, and the seat can corrode, which leaves a rough surface that never seals quite right. This is why old faucets sometimes drip again soon after a washer swap. The seat underneath was the real issue.
How much does a drip actually matter?
More than most people think. It’s not just the wasted water. A faucet that drips for months can stain the sink and wear the metal parts around the leak, which turns a cheap fix into a bigger one. A faucet that’s only dripping a little is the cheapest one to repair.
What does a leaky faucet look like?
Not every leak is a drip from the spout. Leaks can show up in places that are easy to miss:
- Water at the base of the handle. Often a worn O-ring, and it tends to show up when the faucet is running rather than when it’s off.
- A damp spot or puddle at the base of the faucet. Water is getting past a seal somewhere below the handle.
- Moisture under the sink. Check the supply lines and shut-off valves. Sometimes what looks like a faucet leak is actually a supply connection that’s slowly seeping.
- Mineral crust or green/white buildup around joints. That’s dried residue from a slow leak that’s been going on for a while.
A quick way to check for a hidden leak: dry the area under the sink completely, lay a dry paper towel on the cabinet floor, and look at it again after a few hours. Dampness on the towel tells you the leak is real and roughly where it’s coming from.
What are the symptoms of a bad faucet cartridge?
Since the cartridge is behind so many single-handle faucet problems, it’s worth knowing the signs. A cartridge on its way out usually shows up as one or more of these:
- A drip from the spout that won’t stop no matter how firmly you shut the handle
- A handle that feels stiff, gritty, or loose when you move it
- Water temperature that won’t hold steady. It runs cold when you want hot or swings mid-use.
- Reduced flow even though the aerator is clean
- Water leaking around the handle, since cartridge seals sit right behind it
If you’re seeing two or three of these together, the cartridge is almost certainly the cause. The good news is that cartridge swaps are one of the more routine faucet repairs.
Why is my faucet water pressure low?
Low pressure at a single faucet is usually a local problem, not a house-wide one. The most common culprit is the aerator, the little screen at the tip of the spout that mixes air into the water. Mineral deposits collect there, especially in areas with hard water, and slowly choke off the flow.
You can check it yourself. Unscrew the aerator by hand (a cloth helps with grip), look for grit or crusty buildup, and soak it in vinegar if it looks clogged. If the pressure comes back, that’s your answer.
If cleaning the aerator changes nothing, a few other things are worth checking:
- The shut-off valve under the sink. If it’s only partly open, flow drops. This happens more than you’d expect after any recent work under the sink.
- A clogged cartridge. Sediment can lodge inside it and restrict flow.
- Whether it’s only one faucet or all of them. If every faucet in the house has weak pressure, the problem is bigger than one fixture.
Why is my faucet handle hard to turn or loose?
Handles that fight you or flop around are telling you something about what’s going on inside.
A stiff, gritty handle usually means mineral buildup or a worn cartridge. Hard water leaves scale on moving parts, and over time that makes them drag. It often feels like the handle is grinding on something.
A loose handle is a different problem. Handles are held on by a small set screw, usually hidden under a decorative cap. Over years of use that screw loosens. Tightening it takes a minute and costs nothing, so check it before assuming something is broken. If the handle is still loose after tightening, the cartridge or stem underneath may be worn.
Why does my faucet make noise?
Squealing, hammering, or rattling when you turn the water on or off usually points to one of three things.
Squealing or whistling
Often a worn washer or a loose internal part vibrating as water pushes through. It’s more common in older faucets with rubber washers.
Banging or “water hammer”
A loud thud when you shut the water off quickly. It’s caused by water slamming to a stop in the pipe. It can point to high water pressure or loose pipes behind the wall, and it’s worth having looked at because repeated hammering is hard on joints.
Rattling
A loose fixture, a loose cartridge, or something working free inside the faucet body.
How long does a faucet last?
The average lifespan of a faucet is roughly 15 to 20 years, but that’s a loose guideline rather than a promise. Quality matters a lot. A well-built brass faucet can outlast that comfortably, and a budget faucet with plastic internals may start giving trouble in under ten years. Water quality plays a part too. Homes with hard water see more mineral buildup and wear their parts out faster.
Some signs that a faucet is nearing the end of its useful life:
- Repairs that keep coming back, with a new drip or leak every few months
- Corrosion or pitting on the finish, especially near the base
- Parts that are hard or impossible to find because the model has been discontinued
- A faucet that’s simply old and beginning to fail in several ways at once
At that point, repeated repairs start to cost more than they’re worth. We walk through what repair and replacement typically run if you’re trying to decide which way to go.
Which faucet problems can you fix yourself?
Some things are very reasonable to handle on your own:
- Cleaning a clogged aerator. Takes a few minutes and often fixes low pressure outright.
- Tightening a loose handle. A small screwdriver or hex key is usually all it takes.
- Tightening a loose faucet base, where mounting hardware under the sink is accessible.
And a few where calling a plumber saves headaches:
- Replacing a cartridge when you don’t know the exact model. Cartridges are specific to the faucet, and the wrong one won’t seal.
- A leak that keeps coming back after you’ve already tried a fix.
- Anything involving corroded or seized parts, where forcing it can crack the faucet body.
- Leaks under the sink where it isn’t clear whether the faucet or a supply line is the source.
There’s a practical reason to hold off on guessing. A faucet repair done wrong can turn a small drip into a bigger leak, and shutting off and reassembling plumbing is easier when you already know what you’re looking for.
When should you call a plumber about a faucet?
Call sooner rather than later if:
- The drip or leak has been going on for weeks and isn’t getting better
- You see water under the sink or on the cabinet floor
- You’ve already tried replacing a part and the problem is still there
- The faucet is old enough that you suspect it’s due for replacement anyway
- There’s visible corrosion, staining, or mineral crust around the base
If you’re in the Thousand Oaks area and a faucet in your home is dripping, leaking, or acting up, CRC Plumbing handles faucet repair. We can look at what’s going on and tell you whether it’s a quick fix or time to swap it out.